Sanya
There is a ramen shop in the Sanya district operated by an old master and his wife. The shop has neither fancy order sheets nor vending machines, it ran on good old verbal communication. The only pieces of "decorations" were menus hung just above the bar and a mini television visible to all patrons. At approximately 2330 hours, there were three other workmen slurping away, none of them wore a suit. The number of times the owners smiled was next to none but they will show you what a gyoza is supposed to taste like, and it shall never be forgotten. It was the kind of place where you won’t remember its name, but you will its exact location, and the face of the old master–only to return someday.
Somewhere across the street sits Bach Kaffee, a kissaten founded in 1968. They make high quality drip brewed by the order. At 0840 hours, it was quiet. Sitting by the bar guaranteed visibility on all the action. She had one hand on the handle of the kettle, moving slowly and steadily in a circular motion, the other hand clasped firmly onto her waist, keeping her stance. She moved skillfully and gracefully behind the counter and probably could do the same with her eyes closed. Even so, her concentration was sharp, as if it was the last cup of coffee she will ever make. Coffee was served in a bright green cup and yellow saucer, with a teaspoon placed by the side, shining gold with victorian details like an ancient ruin. No photographs allowed. None required. If there ever was a magical cup of coffee, its Bach.
And then there was Kangaroo Hotel, originally a traditional wooden clogs shop before it was a ryokan, before being reinvented by third generation owner and family man, Fumio Kosuge. Naming the space after the Japanese word, Kangaeru, which means "think", it was Fumio's intention to strip away preconceived notions of a hotel to recreate a whole new experience for the modern traveller. Completely functional, without compromising on comfort and aesthetics, the space was designed by APPOLO Architects & Associates, with a concept of being "reasonable but not too little". "Hospitality is not service but an attitude which does not expect anything in return. We always try to talk using our own words, and not by the book." Fumio shared. Kangaroo Hotel SIDE-B in front of Kangaroo is now under construction and will open in January 2015.
0735: The morning after, at the Kangaroo.
"During the post-WWⅡ reconstruction, many blue collars came to town from different parts of Japan and stayed in this area," Fumio revealed. Although located just thirty to forty minutes by the metro from Shibuya, the district in Northern Eastern Tokyo, once known as Sanya, feels like the other end of the world. "Because of the collapse of the bubble economy and the aging of workers, Sanya has become a place for welfare. However, at the 2002 World Cup co-hosted by Japan and South Korea, foreign travellers referred to Sanya as a reasonable hotel area. Since then, Sanya has become a district that is not only for welfare, but for foreign backpackers and Japanese people on trip or business."
Come 1850 hours, taking a slow walk to the Minami-senju station from Kangaroo also meant observing the lives of the old who flooded the streets, taking slow aimless steps, some stopping by the pavement occasionally to stare into the sky, or take a piss. Sanya may not scream glamour, but it was a well-worthy glimpse into a different kind of life in Tokyo, one that was authentic with a firm hold on the ground.
